From Bali to southern
Lombok
Along
our route to
Flores we had set up several meeting points to catch up with Mark's
wife Birgit, Jack and Carla, who were travelling by plane. The
first one was Kuta, a small beach village on the southern coast
of Lombok.
Day
3: Hanging around a bit
too long during breackfast it was almost 1100 when we finally
got on the bikes again to drive up to Padangbay, the ferry harbour
for the crossing to Lombok. The main road has lots of nice views
and leads through some interesting villages, but it is always
'macet' all along the way (indonesian for a permanent traffic
jam). All of us know this area quite well, so we were keen to
leave the Bali traffic behind as quick as possible (see
East Bali in the side bar).
Taking it easy in Padangbai,
we managed to miss the next available ferry to Lombok while sitting
in a warung (foodstall). The crossing takes 4-5 hours, so we finally
had to drive the last part from Lembar harbour in Lombok
to Kuta beach in the dark. We looked for a cheap losmen and then
had dinner together with Birgit and the kids.
Day
4: A lazy day with a couple
of hours on the beach and some walks across the hills separating
the small bays and lonely
beaches. In the afternoon we went on a ride all together through
the mountain area west of Kuta.
Day
5: We had been checking
out a route to Labuhan Lombok which went a bit criss-cross through
south-east Lombok.
The ride was fine with moderate country side traffic, but because
it was also the weekly market day in several villages, the ride
frequently came to a standstill.
Riding east, we had
to adjust our driving stile. It turned out that the most 'dangerous'
vehicles on the road no longer were trucks or busses, but now
we started to watch out for horsecarts. They are relatively wide
(the roads also get narrower), and they move around less controllable
than a car. It doesn't help that they are often driven by underaged
kids. And don't expect them to follow any road rules.
Finally we reached
Labuhan Lombok. After getting off the bikes we were immediately
surrounded by a noisy crowd of kids, food sellers, waiting passengers,
who wanted to take a closer look at the 'big Hondas' and exchange
a few words about where we came from and where we wanted to go.
Two police officers also approaced us and explained that they
would clear the road if we wanted to do wheelies up the ramp onto
the ferry. We joked around and bought some fruits, water and nasi
bungkus. I had another experience of how things in Indonesia often
just fall in place: to get rid of a guy desparately trying to
sell us another pair of sunglasses, I told him half jokingly,
that that's not what I want. I needed new reading glasses, which
I had lost a day earlier. 'No problem, which size?', he said,
pulling out his collection.
Next
page:
our next target was Sumbawa.
Previous
page:
Bali
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Tour
highlights:
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Three
weeks. Yogya, Central and East Java, Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa,
Komodo, Rinca, Flores, and back. Riding, beaches, diving...
(July
2002) see Tour
Pictures
and Map
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| East
Bali |
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If
you're riding in Bali for the first time, don't rush through
this area in a hurry. The hinterlands and secondary roads
in East Bali offer some of the most splendid motorcycle
rides in Indonesia. You can ride around here for weeks and
have lots of fun.
One
of my all time favorite trips leads from Ubud up to Kintamani,
then south to Bangli, east to Rendang and further east to
Amlapura. From here on to Amed along the coast. (This part
is not for the faint hearted.)
In
Padangbai take the ferry to Lombok (24h service, 4-5 hours
crossing time).
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| Kuta
/ Lombok |
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Kuta
area in Lombok (not to be confused with Kuta in Bali) is
famous for its beautiful wild and remote beaches. High waves
attract surfers, and the colourful reefs and the white,
empty beaches are among the most beautiful in Lomok. Be
careful with the strong current!
Lots
of small homestays and restaurants along the beach offer
reasonable rooms for 5 to 10 US$. If you have got the cash
and want to get this 'Fred Flintstone' feeling, you can
also stay in the upmarket 100 US$ Nyale Kuta Novotel.
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| West
of Kuta |
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The
south-western tip is maybe the wildest and most remote part
of Lombok. A rugged and narrow road with lots of pottholes
leads around the peninsula, from which you can access some
beautiful remote beaches.
Don't
drive at night, as this part can be a bit dangerous from
time to time (robberies).
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|
Labuhan Lombok |
This
is the harbour town to take the ferry over to Sumbara. Ferry
services are operating more or less 24 hours, and the trip
takes only 1-2 hours.
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|
Crossing Wallace's Line |
| Alfred
Russel Wallace, the so-called father of animal geography,
formulated his ideas on evolution by natural selection while
observing and collecting wildlife in the islands of Southeast
Asia. He was particularly impressed by the sudden difference
in bird families he encountered when he sailed some twenty
miles east of the island of Bali and landed on Lombok. On
Bali the birds were clearly related to those of the larger
islands of Java and Sumatra and mainland Malaysia. On Lombok
the birds were clearly related to those of New Guinea and
Australia. He marked the channel between Bali and Lombok as
the divide between two great zoogeographic regions, the Oriental
and Australian. In his honor this dividing line, which extends
northward between Borneo and Sulawesi, is still referred to
today as Wallace's Line. |
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